Dressing for the roaring 20s on a 1929 stock market crash budget

Clara Bow, the epitome of flapper chic

I bring up the subject of 1920s fashion, after reading an article in the NY Daily News talking about how parties where retro fashion (mostly 1920s) is all the rage have become a popular way for people to escape the realities of 2009. (The irony here is that the 1920s brought us the Great Depression, which was quite a bit worse than the severe recession we’re experiencing now—so far, anyway.)

But considering the fact that dressing for the period the parties celebrate is somewhat expected, plus—I would think—part of the fun, how can one go about finding the right threads? Particularly ones that aren’t crazy expensive and found at a vintage repro shop?

Well, the first thing to consider is whether or not you might already have some of the basic components of 1920s fashion in your closet already. Flapper style for instance, isn’t that difficult to emulate.
Most people think of those fringy, knee-length dresses when they think of flappers, but that’s not the only way to look 1920s. Mainly the popular look was about de-emphasizing a feminine figure—drop-waists gave a boxy look as did taped back boobs.
Any dress that may be hanging in your closet, ignored, because it’s too big or baggy and you never got around to taking it to the tailor would actually work well for this look.
If it doesn’t have a drop waist, consider adding your own with a delicate scarf tied around the hips, in a complementary color. A popular length for skirts and dresses then was mid-calf.
Patterned stockings as well as black and nude colors were also popular, with mary jane heels. If you don’t have mary janes, any pair of strappy heels will do as long as they’re not pointy or boxy at the toes.

Even more important than the right wardrobe though is the centerpiece of this look, which is undeniably makeup and hair.
If you don’t have hair short enough to pass for that flapper staple style, a bob, wear your hair in a loose bun. Then style the hair in the front and sides with finger waves. An easy way to achieve the look is with heavy metal clips applied to the hair when wet. A decorative headband worn around the forehead completes the look. If you don’t have one, other possibilities include strings of pearls, a bucket hat, a long cigarette holder, a fur stole or any sequined or beaded accessory.
To transform yourself into a jazz age beauty, your face should powdered and lips should be bright or dark red and painted into a cupid’s bow shape. Eyeshadow is dark and smoky while blush or rouge is used sparingly.
Most importantly, eyebrows should be arched and thin. Since no one’s looks that way naturally, you can best achieve this by filling brows in with an eyebrow pencil, elongating the shape until the ends turn slightly downward. The end result should make you look like a sad doll. (Hey, they didn’t call it The Depression for nothing!)

Elvira's beauty tips courtesy of Missbehave magazine

I have to say, ever since the decision by the head honchos at Miss Behave magazine to go online only (starting March), the quality of writing on their blog has improved significantly.

Before I used to think anything on the blog was written in a way that was somewhat masturbatory. But then that's a fault of many blogs that are attached to print publications, where the object is to get you to enjoy them--but not too much, because then you won't be left wanting more.

But I digress. One of the mag's blog's more recent posts features beauty tips used by Elvira (according to writer Rachel Gilman). I'm sure the actual Q&A is fake, but who cares? These tricks are a must for any goth or otherwise big-haired tramp. I can't wait to try them.

Ex: "On lipstick: Number 1 make-up essential, for lips that say “Watch it dude… I bite!"

Review: Loreal Double Extend Beauty Tubes

I'm going to sound like a hypocrite, since only a week ago I went on and on about how Maybelline Lash Stylist is the best mascara out there and now here I am, about to say the same thing about another mascara: Loreal Double Extend Beauty Tubes.

But hey, like in science, there's nothing wrong with any particular theory... until the next one completely disproves it.

So here’s what the big deal is about this stuff, (since every single mascara on the market claims to lengthen, thicken and make it look like you’re wearing false lashes).
This is one of those mascaras you put on in two steps. First the application of a white “nourishing” basecoat, then the color, which literally covers your lashes like tubes. Then voila, noticeably longer lashes. No not quite what you see in the ads, but really what ever is?

My own theory: What helps make the lashes look so dramatic is that the white base coat is so pasty, the wand brush ends up curling the lashes upward with minimal effort.

(Note: This mascara and the primer must be brushed on in one broad coat each. No double dipping or you’ll get spidery, clumpy eyes.)

Beauty Tubes is one of the more expensive drugstore mascaras out there at $11, but if you’re in the market, it’s worth it.

Taking Back The Checkered Scarf

My first post on this blog was actually inspired by the type of checkered and houndstooth scarf seen in this photo, a.k.a. the Arafat scarf.

The short story: I liked how they looked and how they go with anything, but I didn’t want to be seen in one, lest anyone mistake me for one of these charm school graduates.


Seriously, don’t these kids have anything better to protest about? When I was in college we tried to stop the administration from raising student fees and forcing us to take classes that served no purpose except to make money for the school. But students barricading themselves into a room until the school agrees to give scholarships to kids in Gaza?
Come on.

But I digress.

The issue here is, these kids say they want to “take back” NYU. Well… I would like to take back the houndstooth scarf from self-righteous trust fund cunts who don’t even know how to work what they’re wearing.
I also intend to take back plaid scarves and paisley scarves while I’m at it and anything else that could be mistaken for one of the shown-above accessories, at least to the untrained eye.

Yep.

(NY Times Photo)

Pretend Every Day is Laundry Day

So I dressed up way more than I normally would be for a long day at the office. I had a below-the-knee nude-lace lace skirt on, knee-high, lace-up, heeled boots and a fitted, black, boat-neck sweater. I also wore a black rose bead bracelet that kind of matched the lace pattern on the skirt. The overall look—vintagey but put together. (I knew I looked cute, so I preened and strutted a bit.)

And it got the desired result.
Everyone asked where I was going…
Which was, well… nowhere.

So I explained the outfit.
“I ran out of jeans,” I told them.
This prompted a few knowing chuckles.
“I know exactly what you mean,” said Linda, one of my coworkers.
Another co-worker, Michelle, who is a pretty nifty dresser most days, echoed the sentiment.
“I notice when it gets closer to laundry day I start dressing better and better and better,” she said.

Now this got me thinking.
Why is it so hard to break free from the habit of automatically reaching for jeans? And then some top that won’t require much thought in terms of matching or pairing with accessories? Even for people who are for the most part fashion-conscious?

I certainly can’t speak for everyone, but I know that sometimes, if I feel tired or if I don’t have much in the way of time to get dolled up, I feel like my best bet is to wear something that will help me fade into the background.
But then, an hour later, after I’ve had my caffeine fix, listened to something delightfully Eurotrashy on my iPod and had my first chat of the day—this is when I consider myself to be officially “awake”—I am no longer content to look like everyone else. And I regret not taking the time to look my best.

So, though it’ll be a challenge, methinks that from now on, at least three times a week, I am going to pretend that it’s laundry day—and step away from the denim. And have fun being a girl!

50 Years of Barbie, Plus: PIPpy L’s 10 Picks for Best Barbie Impersonators

This week, the fashion world’s going batty for Barbie, the plastic princess who, despite having turned a half a century old, is still celebrated worldwide for her fabulous looks and life.
Designers had fun on the catwalk with their interpretations of Barbie fashion, and for most it didn’t seem to be a stroll down memory lane.
Fashionista has posted an array of photos that represent a nice pu pu platter of shows.

Frankly I expected to see a lot more flowing blond hair, courtesy of wigs or extensions and a bazillion shades of pink. There was a little of that here and there, but for the most part, it seemed as though the designers were afraid that kind of look would be too predictable, so they went the opposite route: Barbie with pinned back hair, Barbie with understated clothing, Barbie not smiling.

What a pity! I mean honestly, the theme is living doll and you come up with this?

I swear sometimes even brilliant designers forget the most important rule of fashion. Which is — have fun!
Otherwise… what is the point?

Moving on, I should probably point out that as a five foot two brunette, I am not nor have I ever been a Barbie looking girl, but having played with the dolls as a kid, naturally she was one of my first standards of what beauty is. As she was for many others, leading to much bleaching and many eating disorders around the globe.
There are many schools of thought as to how dangerous Barbie as beauty icon is—feminists hate her despite the fact that she was a doctor in the seventies and embraced the single life a few years back, with Mattel sending out press releases to announce her split from Ken.
As for me, I think her look is adorable, but I think it’s dangerous when women who are too different from the way she looks try too hard to emulate her. Bottle blond hair is fine. Bottle blond hair, blue contact lenses, breast implants and a face permanently stretched into a smile? Not so much.

Without further ado, here are Pretty in Pink Leopard’s picks for best Barbie Impersonators. Some fabulous, some frightening — none boring.





1. Best Natural Resemblance: Pamela Anderson
First and foremost, credit must be given to Pam, whose Barbie-like looks and locks have landed her on the cover of Playboy many times. She also gets points for capturing the spirit of the Mattel muse by always vamping it up with sexy Barbie outfits and makeup.




2. Trying Too Hard to be Barbie: Lil’ Kim
We’ll give this gal an E for effort, but by trying too hard to not be a black woman, she misses the point of the Barbie fantasy. Being a Barbie girl is about using your imagination, not about literally transforming yourself until you’re a mass-produced piece of plastic. Over the past couple of years, Lil’ Kim’s style has evolved to the point that she now just incorporates just one or two of her old Barbie emulations, whether that’s blonde hair or colored contacts or California girl in a Cadillac clothing, as opposed to doing it all at once. Which is kind of a relief. After all, they make black Barbies for a reason—black is beautiful.



3. Best Black Barbie: RuPaul
Now here’s a bish who knows how to embrace what she’s got in order to properly project Barbie. RuPaul. Pop singer, Mac makeup model and drag diva, managed to make audiences appreciate his male, six-foot and beyond body as he channeled a Barbie look through wigs and makeup and encouraged others to strut similarly and “work the runway, sweetie.”



4. Barbie Re-Interpreted: Dita Von Teese
With skin untouched by the sun and Revlon black hair, Dita Von Teese is hardly trying to look like Barbie. And yet at the same time, she gets what it’s all about. With her elaborate burlesque shows and costumes inspired by the glam looks of Old Hollywood, Dita is the embodiment of a living doll. While she freely admits to being a manufactured beauty as opposed to a natural one (she has breast implants and wears quite a bit of makeup) she captures Barbie by working a fantasy look, but not trying to be anyone but herself.



5. Bringing Barbie Fashion to Life: Lady GaGa
At 22 years old, this pop starlet admits getting inspiration for her often crazy outfits from drag queens she used to share the stages with at nightclubs. The looks don’t often make sense, and frequently border on tacky, but they also bring a sense of fun to a music industry that’s become increasingly dominated by pretty little clones whose sexy looks are made less so due to their complete lack of whimsy and humor.



6. Best Barbie Spirit: Angelyne
Here’s another living doll content to be just that. Ask what Angelyne, known mainly for the billboards with her scantily clad likeness on them seen throughout L.A., does and the response is, “I don’t do. I am.” Another way of saying there’s no taking this girl (age 51, according to her Wikipedia page) out of the pretty plastic packaging she lives her life in. Bonus Barbie points for the Miss Piggy-esque pink clothes and matching Corvette.



7. Barbie Lifestyle: Paris Hilton
You’d be hard-pressed to find anyone who lives a Barbie life better than Paris Hilton, with her closet full of wacky and tacky designer clothes, menagerie of designer pets, schedule of parties and model-esque body. She’s another one who gets what it means to be Barbie. Love her or hate her for her bimbo persona or penchant for colored fur, it should be noted that she, unlike other Hollywood types, chose to forgo having any surgery that might help her look more like a traditional California beauty. And yet, she’s still a poster girl for fun and fashion without rules.



8. Transformed into Barbie: Amanda Lepore
Now here’s an individual who chose to go the opposite route, transforming himself into a she, and a very mannequin-looking she at that. No attempts to pass as natural, just a desire to be out there, a sort of caricature of the kind of beauty the world expects to see in women. The resulting product is definitely a bit scary, but makes an interesting statement. Namely, "God dayum!"



9. Ageless Like Barbie: Madonna
Another diva who looks great at 50, Madonna maintains a firm Barbie body thanks to a strict, but healthy diet and plenty of exercise and yoga. She now, as she has for the past quarter century, has also managed to keep a fan base of 20-somethings interested, thanks to her ever-changing but always youthful takes on style.



10. Accessible Barbie: Gwen Stefani
Unlike most others who actively try to look like Barbie, Gwen’s got the goods naturally, so when he dresses up in one of her signature funky looks, she’s praised by fans and fashion critics alike. Okay, so the hair comes courtesy of bleach and the body from exercise, but the good news is, anyone else can do that, too. Plus, her outfits, frequently inspired by spa, reggae and punk music as well as what’s hot in high fashion, aren’t overtly sexy, save for her trademark red lips and nails, so they’re appealing to both men and women.

Did PIPpy L miss any contemporary real-life Barbies? Who are your favorites?

Shoo Stiletto

There are times when I get so excited about a beauty product—they way it’s marketed of course has something to do with this, much as I hate to admit it. Because let’s be honest. If you have an acne problem, you can’t help but perk up when one of those miracle fix-it products are being hawked on some infomercial. If you just had a baby, of course you’re going to study every stretch mark cream on the market. And when you see some magazine ad where some model’s lashes are out to there — all because of some mascara of course, rather than nature or Photoshop — you, or well, at least I, have to go try it.

See, one of my top beauty kvetches is that I have almost no lashes to speak of, so naturally I was seduced by Maybelline’s newest mascara, Lash Stiletto, which supposedly not only makes your lashes extra long, it gives the illusion of additional length through added shine.

Well, I bought Lash Stiletto last week, and honestly, it just wasn’t all that.
Don’t get me wrong. It’s good makeup. It glided on easily and clump-free with a larger than average brush. But there was no dramatic oh-my-god-they-look-like-false-lashes moment.

I’ve been regularly using the same mascara for the past two years and after a few days of Stiletto I’ve already come crawling back to my Maybelline Lash Stylist.
For me, it seriously beats any other drugstore or department store mascara, which I think has something to do with its brush, or rather comb. The comb applicator prevents clumps and better directs lashes, eliminates the need for that dreaded device, the eyelash curler. So in all honestly, I’m not even sure how much the actual black goo plays a role in how good it looks, but who cares?

(In the interest of fairness, I attempted to apply the Lash Stiletto mascara with the Lash Stylist comb, but unfortunately the comb applicator wouldn’t fit down the neck of the other mascara’s tube.)

The Stuff Sui Dreams Are No Longer Made Of

You know things are bad when Anna Sui is forced to tone down her line’s signature look and not make clothes that are “totally frivolous.”
The designer talks about the concessions she and her contemporaries in the industry are making for this year’s Fashion Week, in today’s issue of The New York Times.

I’ll resist the urge to complain about this too much, because I respect that designers, like the rest of us, have to make a living—and give the people what they want (enough to pay for). Even if their talents are wasted to a degree as a result.

Style Muse of the Month: Erin Esurance

Meet Erin Esurance-assuming you haven't seen her already on all those commercials pitching the company of the same name. Which you probably have, because how could you miss an animated gal who has pink hair and wears a black belted catsuit to her job—selling insurance!—every single day. Occasionally, we’ll see this pixie-ish spokeswoman wearing something else like a yellow ski outfit or a white mini-skirt and go-go boots, but she still manages to look totally super vixen in whatever she puts on—or rather is drawn into.

Kitty cometh

What do you think of MAC’s new Hello Kitty line of makeup?

I for one can’t wait for the official launch of the products on February 12. Ironically, I was one of a minority of girls in my high school (during the mid-1990s) that resisted the urge to deck myself out in Hello Kitty and Keroppi (the Sanrio frog character) accessories, as dictated by a worldwide trend.

So it's a bit difficult to explain why, when as soon as I heard from a friend the other day that there was a Hello Kitty-goes-to-the-dark-side line of makeup coming out, I squealed like a pig in lipstick.



I know for some people, getting into Hello Kitty stuff is a stroll down memory lane, but for me it isn't. (I have no recollection of HK as black and shiny as patent leather as she appears in the ads... unless I missed something.)

No, for me and I’m others I’m sure, indulging in Kitty-inspired makeup is about feeling girlie and glam, but also about being able to approach one’s beauty routine with a degree of playfulness and humor. Rather than a chore (as in you have to put on your concealer or risk looking blotchy, you have to brush on your mascara or risk being told you look tired). Seriously, isn’t putting on your makeup supposed to be fun?
Now, whether or not a violet hued lipstick or an aqua shimmer shadow will be flattering at all on a 30-year-old face (like mine) I haven’t a clue, but I’ll try it before engaging in my normal, instinctual response to any new trend. That would be an eye roll. (If for no other reason than this time of year, it’s all too easy to land in an uninspired beauty rut caused in no small part by skin-drying winds, static-y hat hair and too-short days.)

So perhaps next time I end up doing the same old thing I always do—muted lips with smoky eyes, I’ll replace my trusty neutral pink lipstick with a touch of hot pink Hello Kitty gloss.
I’m also spying with my little eye what appears to be a sleek, black HK face-shaped compact.
But if none of that sounds like your cup of tea, don’t worry. The line also features a few reliable neutrals for lips and face.

Purr purr purr.

Rock out with your socks... er, on

A few weeks ago my mother gave me a bagful of goodies from Loehmann’s—her favorite place to go shopping for designer stuff and—I’ll admit—one of mine as well. As well as a Calvin Klein raincoat and brand X dress that looked very 1950’s housewife-ish (in a flattering way I swear) I also got a pair of gray of thigh high socks with pink seams and pink roses up the sides. It was very Betsey-looking though I don’t have any idea who actually did design them. At any rate, they’d been sitting in my sock drawer ever since then, untouched. Every couple of days I’d look at them longingly, promising myself I’d stop being so lazy and pick an outfit to wear around them.
And today I did! Hey, the mercury went up to a whopping 27 degrees with no wind—so… no excuse to put on skinny jeans and practical boots and call it a day.
Now in case you’re wondering what the purpose of this post is, here goes.
If you have some kooky thing in your wardrobe that you enjoy looking at, you’ll probably enjoy wearing it even more. So it’s worth the effort to leave your comfort zone.
(Mine lately being skinny jeans and slightly loose fitting tops that show my bra straps. Not a fashion faux pas as long as your bra is a pretty color like red or fuchsia. My own personal rule. But still... it gets boring after a while.)
Anyway, the important thing is to give yourself some time to do that one kooky item you’re not sure how to wear justice—weather it’s a sky-high pair of platform wedges or an antique hat with a taxidermied bird on it or a vintage fur. Then just wear it with confidence. If you have to spend an hour trying on stuff, so be it. It’s worth it to have an outfit that’ll make you feel good all day whenever you wear it. The other important thing to remember—and this is going to sound like a contradiction of what I’ve just said—don’t overthink it. Spend too much time deciding whether one pair of shoes or top goes better than another and you’ll just end up in jeans and a t-shirt out of frustration.

What I did was pick a theme—vintage dolly—and run with it.
I ended up wearing my flowerific socks with a poofy layered black skirt from Anthropologie. It was knee length so you couldn’t see the subtle black lace of my pantyhose under the socks, except for glimpses. On my feet I wore a pair of short lace up boots with a low heel. I’ve had those things a million years, but something like Oxfords or any peep toes high heels would have worked just as well. Then I put on a gray top from Forever 21 with mesh on the cleavage area to match—but not compete—with the socks. I completed the look with a black velvet coat from Anthropologie and a beaded black headband.

My husband looked at me like I was crazy, but then kept telling me how hot my legs looked.

Hats that won’t make you look like a dork

It’s frickin’ freezing, Mr. Bigglesworth.

In the NYC area, it’s not exaggerating to say that for the past couple of weeks, the wind and cold can cut through a person, knife-like, making you wish you hadn’t been so damned vain as to not wear a thicker hat, pair of gloves, scarf, etc.
Of course, for some, fashion goes out the winter during the colder months, and when the consequences to not dressing appropriately for subzero temperatures are oh, hypothermia and frostbite, even Pretty in Pink Leopard can’t pooh pooh such a practical choice with her nose in the air.
But neither can I succumb to it.

Chunky sweaters that weigh a ton, hats with pom poms (seriously unless they’re for your kid, eww), puffer coats. It’s all so unnecessary considering that winter wear has come a long way.
So, without further ado, here are my choices for the most fabulous winter hats.

Channel Aretha at the inauguration in this fierce, big-bowed beret. ($38, Urban Outfitters) It’s silver and yet, somehow subdued. And… even better than the soul diva’s choice of headwear, this cutie can be dressed down as well as up. Respect!

A fedora in an eyelet-like weave ($8.80, Forever 21) can work in both cold and warmer weather. I also love the combo of a feminine shape in basic colors. (It’s available in black or brown.)

Cloches, while pretty, can be hard to wear for some due to their retro look. But basic black and pattern-free, this one ($12.80, Forever 21) could even become a winter staple.

Here’s the less “safe” version of the cloche, with jeweled embellishments ($12.80, Forever 21).

Berets are that perfect combination of structure and laid back. To keep this sure-to-be-warm knit style ($15, Urban Outfitters) more French girl and less lunch lady, don’t neglect that liquid eyeliner, leave some hair hanging out and… um… try not to smell like pickles?

There’s something about a big, floppy hat that lends a girl an air of mystery and sophistication. Seriously, I think it’s the new oversized sunglasses. Too bad most Hollywood starlets are too clueless to work this look for the paps. The trick is to make sure the hat can be adjusted around the face and hair as needed. Any hat that’s too stiff will just make you look like a church lady. This one (Topshop, 25 euros, also available in black) is just perfect.

There aren’t too many animal prints that could be considered ladylike, but somehow snow leopard manages to be both wild and expensive-looking. Of course, the fact that this one is made of real fur (rabbit) and leather ($350, Saks) probably has something to with it. Yeah, I like bunnies, too, but… so pretty!

Here’s a slightly more affordable version ($210, Lord & Taylor.) Hey, I did say “slightly.”

I don’t know why I like this wool captain’s hat ($15, Urban Outfitters). It’s neither vintagey looking nor especially rock-n-roll looking (My personal go-to looks). Maybe it’s because it looks like something Winona Ryder or Kate Moss would wear with a cute mini, black tights and the mother and father of overpriced handbags.

Lotus Lover

I’m a relative newcomer to the art of shopping Etsy, having just made my first purchases yesterday—a pair of earrings and a knit hat crafted by a talented friend.

However, after taking a quick browse around a few jewelry shops on the site, I’ve already spied an accessory trend: Lotus plants embedded in hoop earrings.



There’s something about the lotus flower that feels elegant and yet somehow it’s neither fussy nor frou-frou. Meanwhile, the traditional hoop keeps the look practical—another way of saying these earrings are low-key enough to be worn as often as you want, without worrying about being seen in the same thing too often.

Here are a few of my fave designs. (The starving artist-friendly prices are nice, too!)

“Golden Lotus” (brass)
On sale for $12.80 by Luxedeluxe

“Floating Lotus” (bronzed brass)
$16.01 by Torque

Silver “Rising Sun” (sterling silver)
$10 by Cravejewelrydesign

I’m not sure how this particular trend got started. Perhaps a celebrity was photographed in a pair of lotus hoops, but frankly, I’m more inclined to give creative credit to Etsy’s craftspeople. And I’m definitely getting a pair, though I haven’t decided which one yet.

What the frock?! Village Voice loses Lynn

My favorite fashion writer, Village Voice columnist Lynn Yaeger has been laid off, I just read on Fashionista.com.

All I can say is... damn.

Obviously, we all know the field of journalism, specifically print, is in the toilet, but I have to admit-I am completely shocked by the fact that the decision makers at big publications are trying to remedy the problem by canning some of their most popular writers. I guess they're generally the most expensive to keep on the payroll, but guess what? If you don't have a quality product, nobody's going to buy it. Personally I only read VV for Yaeger's down-to-earth, but funny take on high fashion along with her tales of flea market and big box shopping adventures. That and Dan Savage. Knee-jerk reactions to decreased ad revenue like this one don't help publications, they ruin them.

Fortunately for Lynn, she's generally worshipped in the fashion blogosphere, so I'm sure that's where her next gig will come from-and soon.

I think the reason for her popularity also has to do with the fact that she's not a diva, but she's still an intriguing character. I met Lynn on the street near Union Square Park a couple of years ago. She was dressed up in her signature vintage dolly look with rouged circles on her cheeks, and was very gracious when I said hi and told her I loved her column.

Best of luck, Lynn.